1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Rebuild
This DIY explains how to rebuild a 1963 C10 MANUAL TRANSMISSION steering column. A 1964 through 1966 C10 MT column is nearly identical. The only big difference is the design of the turn signal mechanism.
All parts must be in good condition. Replace any worn out parts. The steering coupler, lower bearing, turn signal mechanism and upper bearing can be purchased new if they need to be replaced. The lower bearing is especially prone to failure with age because of lack of proper lubrication. A damaged steering shaft should be professionally repaired or replaced.
All parts must be in good condition. Replace any worn out parts. The steering coupler, lower bearing, turn signal mechanism and upper bearing can be purchased new if they need to be replaced. The lower bearing is especially prone to failure with age because of lack of proper lubrication. A damaged steering shaft should be professionally repaired or replaced.
Choosing a Lower Bearing
If you want a trouble free lower bearing, buy a new bronze bushing to replace the factory bearing. It must be pressed into the old bearing casing. A bronze bushing has no moving parts to go bad.
Another option is a sealed bearing with a 3/4" inner diameter. It comes with a new casing. These are often listed as a 1969-1972 part but the size is correct. The case OD will be 1+7/8" and the bearing ID will be 3/4". See photo below.
If your original factory bearing is in bad shape, a new factory style lower bearing can be purchased but the casing is not included.
Another option is a sealed bearing with a 3/4" inner diameter. It comes with a new casing. These are often listed as a 1969-1972 part but the size is correct. The case OD will be 1+7/8" and the bearing ID will be 3/4". See photo below.
If your original factory bearing is in bad shape, a new factory style lower bearing can be purchased but the casing is not included.
Bronze Lower Bushing
Bearing ID is 3/4" **No casing included** Available from these vendors. Compare shipping costs! bobschevytrucks.com Part 250187 They incorrectly call it a bearing. impalaparts.com Part - 5866SCBL Also check eBay. |
Factory Lower Bearing
Bearing ID is 3/4" **No casing included** Available from these vendors. Compare shipping costs! TruckandCarShop.com Part 60-06710 americanclassic.com Part 76-821 They incorrectly call it a bushing. Also check eBay. |
Sealed Lower Bearing
Bearing ID is 3/4" Bearing case OD is 1+7/8" Available from these vendors. Compare shipping costs! americanclassic.com Part 76-823 TruckandCarShop.com Part 69-067102 (correct part even though it says for 69-72) Also check eBay. |
1. Rebuilding the Factory Lower Bearing
Rebuilding the lower bearing is easy, but ALL the pieces must be in good condition.
**IMPORTANT** OPEN THE BEARING INSIDE A BOWL.
First, use a pick to lift out the C-clip. Try not to damage the felt seal below the clip.
**IMPORTANT** OPEN THE BEARING INSIDE A BOWL.
First, use a pick to lift out the C-clip. Try not to damage the felt seal below the clip.
If you soak the felt seal in grease or oil, you might be able to reuse it.
Clean all parts and inspect for pitting and rust. Polish the bearing race and bearing cup.
Clean all parts and inspect for pitting and rust. Polish the bearing race and bearing cup.
Let's put the lower bearing back together.
It's back together again. All of the C-clip tabs are UNDER the edge of the cup.
Turn it over and add grease to any areas with exposed bearings.
2. Installing the Shifter Tube
Clean the shifter tube pieces and inspect for damage. The notched "T" shaped piece is spot welded to the tube and cannot be removed. The round ended shift arm pictured below cannot be removed but will pivot freely once released from the "T".
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Move the large bushing to compress the spring. You can now see a thin shim between the notched "T" and the shift arm. Clean out any dirt or foreign material and liberally apply bearing grease between each of the pieces.
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**BEFORE going any further.** Stand the column upright with the lower bearing resting on a block of wood. Place a wood block on the top of the main column tube and gently tap the top block with a rubber mallet. This will seat the shifter tube against the 3 tabs at the lower part of the column.
Before tightening the bolts make sure the lower shift arm can move back and forth freely. This picture shows a large gap between the lower shift arm and the lower bearing. An adjustment is needed.
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Loosen the bolts and twist the bearing and C clip CCW and you will see and feel the bearing case move up against the lower shift arm. Tighten the bolts. Check to make sure the lower shift arm moves freely.
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When properly assembled, the upper shift arm tab should be engaged in the "T" notch.
The lower shift arm tab should NOT be engaged.
There should NOT be enough space for the "T" to slip between the tabs.
The lower shift arm tab should NOT be engaged.
There should NOT be enough space for the "T" to slip between the tabs.
3. Final Assembly of the Steering Column
Now is a good time to give the column a final coat of paint.
It's time to inspect the turn signal mechanism to see if it can be used.
Replacement and new turn signal parts are available from these and other vendors.
TruckandCarShop.com
LMCTruck.com/chevrolet
EarlyClassic.com
AmericanClassic.com
Replacement and new turn signal parts are available from these and other vendors.
TruckandCarShop.com
LMCTruck.com/chevrolet
EarlyClassic.com
AmericanClassic.com
My original turn signal cam was broken. The base of the mechanism was in good shape, including the upper bearing. In operation, if the large brass ring is grounded the horn will blow. The brown wire in the picture below is clipped to a tab on the brass ring. When the large ring makes contact with ground, the brown wire trip the horn relay (under the hood), and cause the horn to blow.
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Inspect the upper bearing. It lives inside the plastic housing and sits about 1/4" below the brass ring. If the bearing moves up and down inside the plastic housing, you will probably need to replace the whole mechanism or find a way to secure the bearing. If the bearing moves up and contacts the large brass ring, it will ground the ring and the horn will blow (when you don't want it to).
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Use a multi-meter to make sure the wires and pins have good continuity.
If the turn signal mechanism and bearing are in good shape, we can continue rebuilding the column.
In operation, when the driver shifts to REVERSE, the shifter tube moves down inside the main tube. As the driver moves the column lever to REVERSE gear, the metal tab above my pick will then contact and move the tab on the switch.
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Since I don't have reverse lights, at least the switch will cover the slotted hole and keep most of the dust and dirt out. |
The main column is now complete and will soon be ready for installation.
4. The Steering Shaft and Coupler
**Inspect the steering shaft for cuts or grooves. Damage can occur if the lower column bearing fails. A damaged steering shaft should be replaced or professionally repaired.**
Replacing the Steering Coupler (Rag Joint)
New steering coupler parts are available from these and other vendors.
TruckandCarShop.com
LMCTruck.com/chevrolet
EarlyClassic.com
AmericanClassic.com
New steering coupler parts are available from these and other vendors.
TruckandCarShop.com
LMCTruck.com/chevrolet
EarlyClassic.com
AmericanClassic.com
The bottom of the shaft has the steering coupler, often called a "rag joint". The factory pieces are riveted together. The splines must be in good shape if you plan to rebuild the coupler.
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Rebuild kits are available. If you buy a pre-assembled rag joint, make sure you get the right spline count to match your steering box. My kit came with extra pieces but no instructions.
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The factory coupler has two pins. One is larger than the other. I will refer to these as BOW TIE pins. These pins correspond to two notches in the upper flange. One notch is larger than the other. |
On the bottom side, those same pins are riveted to the BOW TIE. The BOW TIE is the piece with splines. Mark the BOW TIE so you will know later which side had the larger diameter pin. There are 2 trapezoid shaped metal plates. Grind the rivets off of these plates but not the BOW TIE just yet.
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**IMPORTANT**
During assembly, ALL threaded pieces should get a few drops of LOC-TITE thread locker or peen the end of the bolt to deform it to keep it from backing out.
During assembly, ALL threaded pieces should get a few drops of LOC-TITE thread locker or peen the end of the bolt to deform it to keep it from backing out.
I cleaned the pieces I needed to reuse. The BOW TIE, copper band, 4 steel plates and the spline bolt. From the kit I used the large and medium BOW TIE pins, two bolts, 4 lock washers, 3 nuts and a special nut.
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The large BOW TIE pin goes through a metal plate, through the rubber, and then gets a lock washer and nut on the BOW TIE side. Peen the end! |
The small BOW TIE pin goes through a plate, then the copper band ring, the rubber, and finally gets a lock washer and nut on the BOW TIE side. Peen the end!
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Match up the big pin with the correct flange notch. The copper band makes contact with the upper flange and the BOW TIE pin to keep the steering shaft grounded.
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Push the nut with the threaded sleeve through a metal plate and into the rubber disc. Put a lock washer on a bolt. Then push the bolt though the upper flange, the copper band ring, the rubber disc, and thread it into the sleeved nut. Peen the end!
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Install the final bolt and peen the end. Medium Loc-Tite can be used instead of peening the threads. The coupler should have metal plates on the bottom side of the rubber as shown here. |
The coupler should have metal plates on the TOP SIDE of the rubber beneath each of the BOW TIE pins. |
Hand check the 12 point gear box shaft bolt for clearance past the BOW TIE nut. The 12 point bolt cannot be installed in the BOW TIE until AFTER the coupler is on the gear box. Mine would barely clear.
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