My original DS door skin was a disaster but the door bottom was good. Then I bought 2 replacement doors at the salvage yard. Why 2 doors? Well, I bought one and then found a nicer one, so now I have 3 doors. I'll attempt to repair the original door, but it will require a new door skin and some serious dent repair requiring removal of the brace inside the door jam area. The blue door in the second set of pictures needs repairs too and I'm not sure which door will be easier to repair. This blue door has a nice skin with only a small dent at the upper convex body line. It will need a lower door skin patch repair and a new inner door bottom. If repairing my truck's original door isn't practical, then I'll use that inner door bottom to patch this blue door.
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The DS fender went on pretty easy. In case you're wondering what I'm up to, I'm replacing the truck body panels so they are more stable for body work. This also gives me the motivation I need to keep the momentum. Both front fenders need patch panels and dent repair. I'll soon order an American Autowire kit to rewire the entire truck.
The windshield gasket I bought is very nice, but of course there are no instructions. The forum folks show how to use a string to slip the edge over the flange during installation. I had to study the gasket for almost 30 minutes before I could figure out which part slips over the edge of the glass. I'll recruit a family member to help me set it into place. Below, the glass is face down with the gasket installed. Soapy water and a blunt tipped metal hook tool are helpful. A look at the way things were the day I took it out makes the installation all that much more satisfying.
Today was crazy. Really crazy. Really. I finished rebuilding my front hubs, fixed my bent DS front brake backing plate and then just couldn't stop. I sandblasted my lower fender brackets and heater delete plates. Then I installed the DS inner fender, splash pan to radiator seal, and grille support. The PS fender is a trial fit. It's actually starting to look like a truck again.
I started to rebuild my front hubs tonight. Tomorrow I'll use a shop press to install the new bearing races.
I finished the exhaust installation tonight and then put the PS inner fender on. Lining it up was pretty easy. The new rubber seals are held in place by the pressure. I plan to disassemble the inner fenders again later when I paint the truck.
I spent some money on shop tools this week. Mostly cool stuff that I got really great deals on. The Texaco Oil Barrel will replace the plastic trash can. The vise was a pretty good deal and has an 8" jaw and an anvil. The tripod and halogen shop lights make it much easier to see whem I'm working at night.
Stopped by the muffler shop today and made some adjustments to the front exhaust pipe. Now everything fits well. I did have to cut and insert a short piece in the vertical section of the front pipe. No big deal really, and it'll be completely functional once I weld the pieces. Later, once the truck can be legally driven, I'll stop by the muffler shop and have him make me a new front pipe.
The muffler shop bent some exhaust pipes for me. I did a trial fit and they hang low but I think a small bend will fix the problem.
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See my BLOG entries from prior months below:
March 2024
My Hobbies are:Auto Restoration Categories |
- Main BLOG Page
- Steering Column Page
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T5 Info Page
- Thinking about installing a T5? READ THIS FIRST
- My T5 videos
- Making a Custom Shifter
- Complete T5 Driveline - Installation from Engine to Rear Axle
- S10 T5 Transmission Jeep Shaft Swap - DIY and skip the adapter plate.
- Camaro Drive Gear Relocation
- T5 Tail Stock with a Cable Speedo Connection
- World Class and Non-World Class versions of the T5 - How to tell them apart.
- How to determine the T5 gearing
- A possible solution for cable speedometers.
- T5 Transmission Identification - What the Tags and Markings Mean
- What's the difference between a Camaro T5, an S10 T5, and an Astro T5?
- T5 Transmission Tear Down
- T5 S10 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 pre-purchase inspection and questions
- T5 Resource List
- T5 Case Inspection
- Bell housing differences
- T5 Drive Gear and Driven Gear Combinations
- A Camaro T5 with the S10 Conversion
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Tips & Tricks Section
- DIY Wiring Tips
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- Piston Stop Tool
- Broken Bolt Extraction
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- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Removal
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Disassembly
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Rebuild
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Installation
- Easy Clutch Pedal Adjustment
- Making the Steering Column Safer
- Power Steering
- How to improve gauge cluster lighting.
- Stripping Paint - Polycarbide Abrassive Wheel
- Jeep Cherokee Door Check Modification - Very Simple
- Keeping the hood aligned
- DIY All Cable Ebrake System for 1963-1972 C10
- Alignment Tools - Easier than you think
- Conversion to dual master cylinder brakes 1963-1966 C10.
- Steering column modification
- A simple way to remove old control arm bushings.
- An easy way to adjust brake shoes
- How to remove a pilot bushing from the crankshaft.
- Cutting spot welds
- E-brake clip removal made easy
- Harmonic Balancer Installation - Tapping threads in the crank
- POR 15 with less mess.
- Engine Run Stand
- Engine Dolly - EZ to make
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- Sway Bar Info
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Other Projects
- 1934 Chevy Coupe Build Page
- 1934 Chevy Master 5 Window Coupe
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- Hot Rod 283 SBC Build
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- 283ci SBC Engine
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- Coat Hook
- Engine Run Stand
- 1963 Short Fleet Project
- Metal sculpture figures
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- Shop Sign
- Lean-to Shop Addition
- Air Compressor Project
- 2 Post Automotive Lift
- 1963 Chevy Custom C10 SBFS BBW
- Metal Top Outdoor Work Table
- Bearings to grenade
- Bar Stool Go Kart
- Special Bolts Plaque
- Vise Stand
- Grinder Stand
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Random Pics
- 2021 Stovebolt Jamboree Pictures
- 1963 Custom Comfort Seat
- Flywheel differences
- Carb spacer
- Bimini 2019
- T5 shifter ideas
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- LUGNUTZ DIY Shop
- Alaska 2018
- 2019 ODSS Homecoming
- Chevy 3 speed transmission ID
- 2018 Stovebolt Homecoming Pics
- Anvil
- Pallet Rack Shelving
- Reference PICS
- shop plywood walls
- Welding Stuff