My engine stand is rated at 1250 pounds. Grade 8 bolts are needed. The sheet metal under the stand was removed from the bed of my C10. Nothing goes to waste in my yard! LOL!
Today I used the engine hoist I bought about 2 months ago. It was easy to remove the engine with only the frame below. I don't think I could have removed it by myself if the truck was still all together. I plan to tear down the engine and hopefully learn why the compression tests were so bad. I'd like to rebuild it but the cost might not be something I can justify. We shall see.
The final stage of frame restoration is under way. Everything behind the front cab mounts is already done.
I knew better than to wait until now to do a compression test, so I will have to eat some crow here. I wrongly assumed that since I got the engine running and drove it up and down the road that the engine didn't have a big problem. Wrong! Here are the numbers after repeating the compression test X3 on each cylinder.
On #4, #5 & #6 I could get it 5 higher with 6 or 7 needle bumps.
Just for fun, I squirted oil into #3 and repeated = no difference.
My original doors are pretty beat up on the outside but the inner door shells are in good shape. Better than most I see. I think the DS door is destined to be a donor for the patches I need to fix a door I got at the salvage yard. However, the PS door can probably be saved with a new outer door skin.
I'm trying to figure out if my 230ci engine is any good or not. I was surprised to get some low compression numbers Tuesday night. I need to check some additional things before I give up on it. It might just have some stuck valves.
Today, I applied POR15 to the middle portion of the frame. The front 1/3 will be done once the engine is pulled. Since my original driver's door is badly dented, I decided to pull the door skin off and look inside. The inner door frame is also damaged, but the lower half is in good condition and will be used as a patch panel for my replacement door.
Cleaning the frame by hand is hard work. Unfortunately, I have no other choice. Soon I'll have everything on the frame from the front cab mount back protected with POR15. I found a few numbers stamped onto the frame.
I removed the driveshaft and drained the tranny tonight. My plan to check the compression in each cylinder was delayed by rain until tomorrow.
Today I pushed the cab into the back of the yard and covered it up with plastic and tarps. It will have to wait until I get the frame and drivetrain completed.
I had about 2 hours so I disassembled my 2 original doors. Interestingly, the best part of my original doors is the area that usually rusts out. Maybe the passenger door can be saved, but I think I would rather use these door bottoms as donors for the patches that are needed on my doors from the salvage yard.
My son and I carefully rolled the cab sideways onto the rocker. Then while he balanced it, I pulled the frame away from the cab. Slidinig it up onto the trailer was another 2 person job, but I had things set up pretty good so it didn't take too long. The frame under the cab had a lot of grease and dirt. Things are moving forward at a good pace and I'm excited.
See my BLOG entries from prior months below:
My Hobbies are:
- Main BLOG Page
- The Purchase
T5 Info Page
- Thinking about installing a T5? READ THIS FIRST
- My T5 videos
- Making a Custom Shifter
- Complete T5 Driveline - Installation from Engine to Rear Axle
- S10 T5 Transmission Jeep Shaft Swap - DIY and skip the adapter plate.
- Camaro Drive Gear Relocation
- T5 Tail Stock with a Cable Speedo Connection
- World Class and Non-World Class versions of the T5 - How to tell them apart.
- A possible solution for cable speedometers.
- T5 Transmission Identification - What the Tags and Markings Mean
- What's the difference between a Camaro T5, an S10 T5, and an Astro T5?
- How to determine the T5 gearing
- T5 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 pre-purchase inspection and questions
- T5 Resource List
- T5 Case Inspection
- Bell housing differences
- T5 Drive Gear and Driven Gear Combinations
- A Camaro T5 with the S10 Conversion
Tips & Tricks Section
- DIY 3 Point Seat Belt Installation
- Easy Clutch Pedal Adjustment
- Making the Steering Column Safer
- How to improve gauge cluster lighting.
- Stripping Paint - Polycarbide Abrassive Wheel
- Jeep Cherokee Door Check Modification - Very Simple
- Keeping the hood aligned
- Alignment Tools - Easier than you think
- Conversion to dual master cylinder brakes 1963-1966 C10.
- Steering column modification
- A simple way to remove old control arm bushings.
- An easy way to adjust brake shoes
- How to remove a pilot bushing from the crankshaft.
- Cutting spot welds
- E-brake clip removal made easy
- POR 15 with less mess.
- Engine Dolly - EZ to make
- Harminic Balancer Installation - Tapping threads in the crank
- Steering Wheel Restoration Page
- Other Projects
- Random Pics
- Items for sale