I used a wire brush to clean tons of grease off the bell and other parts you see below. The sandblaster cleaned them up the rest of the way. Then some paint. Several coats of paint will be needed.
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Most new cast iron parts will look rusty within a few months. Especially exhaust manifolds. A forum member recommended a special cream dressing for manifolds that makes the cast iron look new again. Here are some pics so you can see the results. I also applied some to my rusty brake master cylinder so you can see the amazing transformation.
I had a bunch of stuff waiting to get done. I've replaced all the valve stem seals. I started painting the engine but it will need several coats.. I used a manifold dressing called Calyx to clean up my manifolds and now they look new again. I sandblasted several parts too. I also reorganized the spare parts I have in my enclosed trailer.
The 66 has lots of good parts and these trailing are going to a guy with a 62 that I know from the Stovebolt forum.
I had a difficult time changing the valve seals tonight. Stuffing the cylinder with nylon rope held the valve in the up position, but not tight enough to get the retainer loose. So I had to fill the cylinder with air pressure. That held the valve tightly against the head and I was able to get 3 valves done before darkness forced me to stop. More progress on Friday.
I went to the salvage yard today hunting parts for a friend. Ended up bringing home an original 230ci valve cover from a 1964 C10. It had one tiny ding which I bumped out without any problem. You might see it in the photos, but it will be invisible before I paint it. This valve cover is way nicer than the original 1971 valve cover.
I got some great advice from friends on the STOVEBOLT FORUM. They told me everything I needed to know about how to remove the harmonic balancer pulley. The engine will be ready for paint after a few more hours of preparation.
I had my worries that the manifold bolts were going to be a big problem since there was a lot of rust. I soaked them overnight with PB Blaster and they came undone without any problems. Now I will be able to properly paint the block. I still have not figured out how to remove the main pulley and the timing cover.
Soak with kerosene. Scrub. Repeat. The head looks clean now, but I still need to change the valve seals. Friends have suggested that I simply clean the lifters instead of replace them. I cleaned the oil pan today. Not a small task. Then etch and build primer. I'll order engine paint soon.
No picture to post until I'm done, but tonight I spent time scrubbing the engine with kerosene to remove carbon and grease. I ordered a full gasket kit and I think new lifters and valve seals are a good idea. The compression numbers are good but I don't know how many miles are on the engine. My friend thinks I need to pull the head. Any advice? Please share your thoughts.
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See my BLOG entries from prior months below:
March 2024
My Hobbies are:Auto Restoration Categories |
- Main BLOG Page
- Steering Column Page
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T5 Info Page
- Thinking about installing a T5? READ THIS FIRST
- My T5 videos
- Making a Custom Shifter
- Complete T5 Driveline - Installation from Engine to Rear Axle
- S10 T5 Transmission Jeep Shaft Swap - DIY and skip the adapter plate.
- Camaro Drive Gear Relocation
- T5 Tail Stock with a Cable Speedo Connection
- World Class and Non-World Class versions of the T5 - How to tell them apart.
- How to determine the T5 gearing
- A possible solution for cable speedometers.
- T5 Transmission Identification - What the Tags and Markings Mean
- What's the difference between a Camaro T5, an S10 T5, and an Astro T5?
- T5 Transmission Tear Down
- T5 S10 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 pre-purchase inspection and questions
- T5 Resource List
- T5 Case Inspection
- Bell housing differences
- T5 Drive Gear and Driven Gear Combinations
- A Camaro T5 with the S10 Conversion
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Tips & Tricks Section
- DIY Wiring Tips
- Oil Pump Priming Tool
- Piston Stop Tool
- Broken Bolt Extraction
- DIY 3 Point Seat Belt Installation
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Removal
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Disassembly
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Rebuild
- 1963 Chevy C10 Steering Column Installation
- Easy Clutch Pedal Adjustment
- Making the Steering Column Safer
- Power Steering
- How to improve gauge cluster lighting.
- Stripping Paint - Polycarbide Abrassive Wheel
- Jeep Cherokee Door Check Modification - Very Simple
- Keeping the hood aligned
- DIY All Cable Ebrake System for 1963-1972 C10
- Alignment Tools - Easier than you think
- Conversion to dual master cylinder brakes 1963-1966 C10.
- Steering column modification
- A simple way to remove old control arm bushings.
- An easy way to adjust brake shoes
- How to remove a pilot bushing from the crankshaft.
- Cutting spot welds
- E-brake clip removal made easy
- Harmonic Balancer Installation - Tapping threads in the crank
- POR 15 with less mess.
- Engine Run Stand
- Engine Dolly - EZ to make
- Steering Wheel Restoration Page
- Sway Bar Info
- Power Brake Booster Page
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Other Projects
- 1934 Chevy Coupe Build Page
- 1934 Chevy Master 5 Window Coupe
- 1963 Body repairs
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- Hot Rod 283 SBC Build
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- 1968 C10 Short Fleet
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- 283ci SBC Engine
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- Coat Hook
- Engine Run Stand
- 1963 Short Fleet Project
- Metal sculpture figures
- Shop Project
- Shop Sign
- Lean-to Shop Addition
- Air Compressor Project
- 2 Post Automotive Lift
- 1963 Chevy Custom C10 SBFS BBW
- Metal Top Outdoor Work Table
- Bearings to grenade
- Bar Stool Go Kart
- Special Bolts Plaque
- Vise Stand
- Grinder Stand
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Random Pics
- 2021 Stovebolt Jamboree Pictures
- 1963 Custom Comfort Seat
- Flywheel differences
- Carb spacer
- Bimini 2019
- T5 shifter ideas
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- LUGNUTZ DIY Shop
- Alaska 2018
- 2019 ODSS Homecoming
- Chevy 3 speed transmission ID
- 2018 Stovebolt Homecoming Pics
- Anvil
- Pallet Rack Shelving
- Reference PICS
- shop plywood walls
- Welding Stuff