I used a wire brush to clean tons of grease off the bell and other parts you see below. The sandblaster cleaned them up the rest of the way. Then some paint. Several coats of paint will be needed.
Most new cast iron parts will look rusty within a few months. Especially exhaust manifolds. A forum member recommended a special cream dressing for manifolds that makes the cast iron look new again. Here are some pics so you can see the results. I also applied some to my rusty brake master cylinder so you can see the amazing transformation.
I had a bunch of stuff waiting to get done. I've replaced all the valve stem seals. I started painting the engine but it will need several coats.. I used a manifold dressing called Calyx to clean up my manifolds and now they look new again. I sandblasted several parts too. I also reorganized the spare parts I have in my enclosed trailer.
I had a difficult time changing the valve seals tonight. Stuffing the cylinder with nylon rope held the valve in the up position, but not tight enough to get the retainer loose. So I had to fill the cylinder with air pressure. That held the valve tightly against the head and I was able to get 3 valves done before darkness forced me to stop. More progress on Friday.
I went to the salvage yard today hunting parts for a friend. Ended up bringing home an original 230ci valve cover from a 1964 C10. It had one tiny ding which I bumped out without any problem. You might see it in the photos, but it will be invisible before I paint it. This valve cover is way nicer than the original 1971 valve cover.
I had my worries that the manifold bolts were going to be a big problem since there was a lot of rust. I soaked them overnight with PB Blaster and they came undone without any problems. Now I will be able to properly paint the block. I still have not figured out how to remove the main pulley and the timing cover.
No picture to post until I'm done, but tonight I spent time scrubbing the engine with kerosene to remove carbon and grease. I ordered a full gasket kit and I think new lifters and valve seals are a good idea. The compression numbers are good but I don't know how many miles are on the engine. My friend thinks I need to pull the head. Any advice? Please share your thoughts.
See my BLOG entries from prior months below:
My Hobbies are:
- Main BLOG Page
- The Purchase
T5 Info Page
- Thinking about installing a T5? READ THIS FIRST
- Making a Custom Shifter
- Complete T5 Driveline - Installation from Engine to Rear Axle
- S10 T5 Transmission Jeep Shaft Swap - DIY and skip the adapter plate.
- Camaro Drive Gear Relocation
- T5 Tail Stock with a Cable Speedo Connection
- World Class and Non-World Class versions of the T5 - How to tell them apart.
- A possible solution for cable speedometers.
- T5 Transmission Identification - What the Tags and Markings Mean
- What's the difference between a Camaro T5, an S10 T5, and an Astro T5?
- How to determine the T5 gearing
- T5 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 pre-purchase inspection and questions
- T5 Resource List
- T5 Case Inspection
- Bell housing differences
- T5 Drive Gear and Driven Gear Combinations
- A Camaro T5 with the S10 Conversion
Tips & Tricks Section
- DIY 3 Point Seat Belt Installation
- Making the Steering Column Safer
- How to improve gauge cluster lighting.
- Stripping Paint - Polycarbide Abrassive Wheel
- Jeep Cherokee Door Check Modification - Very Simple
- Conversion to dual master cylinder brakes 1963-1966 C10.
- Steering column modification
- A simple way to remove old control arm bushings.
- An easy way to adjust brake shoes
- How to remove a pilot bushing from the crankshaft.
- Cutting spot welds
- E-brake clip removal made easy
- POR 15 with less mess.
- Engine Dolly - EZ to make
- Steering Wheel Restoration Page
- Other Projects
- Random Pics