The poly carbide wheel on my grinder strips paint fast. It's just like erasing paint. This PS door panel took only 20 minutes. The tailgate took longer but has more uneven areas. I have a patch for the lower right corner.
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Pinching the door skin edges around the shell is a slow tedious process. You can't help but get nervous wondering if things will line up once the door is put back on the cab. The trial installation confirmed a good fit. This was a lot of work and I'm still not done.
The PS door needs a new skin. I measured and then cut off the old skin and prepared the inside of the door shell with POR-15. I cut out and prepared the original door handle brace too. With plans to finish the door later this week, I rebuilt the PS door hinges. That way the door will hang without sagging as I make final adjustments just before I weld the skin.
When I installed my T5 transmission, I decided to remove the 1965 E-brake crossmember and upgrade to the 1966 version. It eliminates the need for the 1965 frame crossmember. Using parts from a 1966 truck I parted out, I fabricated a hybrid of the 1965 and 1966 E-brake mechanisms. I removed my 1965 cable from the cab and replaced it with the slightly shorter 1966 cable. The 1966 system uses a rod, 2 cable saddle guides and 2 pigtail cable guides. I did not need to use the pigtail guides. The curved saddle guides hold the front section of the cable and provide tension when the E-brake is applied. The slotted saddle sits on the PS rod. For this modification, I needed 12 inches of undamaged cable. I attached a new aluminum cable end stop. A good smack with a 3 pound sledge hammer made the anchor secure. I made sure the cable connection bracket would not slip off the cable stop. I put the cable connection brackets on the ends of my 1965 cables. The 12 inches of cable in the middle lays inside the saddle guides. Cable tension is adjusted by the 2 nuts on the end of the DS cable coming from the cab.
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See my BLOG entries from prior months below:
April 2018
My Hobbies are:Auto Restoration Categories |
- Main BLOG Page
- The Purchase
-
T5 Info Page
- Thinking about installing a T5? READ THIS FIRST
- Making a Custom Shifter
- Complete T5 Driveline - Installation from Engine to Rear Axle
- S10 T5 Transmission Jeep Shaft Swap - DIY and skip the adapter plate.
- Camaro Drive Gear Relocation
- T5 Tail Stock with a Cable Speedo Connection
- World Class and Non-World Class versions of the T5 - How to tell them apart.
- A possible solution for cable speedometers.
- T5 Transmission Identification - What the Tags and Markings Mean
- What's the difference between a Camaro T5, an S10 T5, and an Astro T5?
- How to determine the T5 gearing
- T5 Transmission Rebuild
- T5 pre-purchase inspection and questions
- T5 Resource List
- T5 Case Inspection
- Bell housing differences
- T5 Drive Gear and Driven Gear Combinations
- A Camaro T5 with the S10 Conversion
-
Tips & Tricks Section
- DIY 3 Point Seat Belt Installation
- Making the Steering Column Safer
- How to improve gauge cluster lighting.
- Stripping Paint - Polycarbide Abrassive Wheel
- Jeep Cherokee Door Check Modification - Very Simple
- Steering column modification
- A simple way to remove old control arm bushings.
- An easy way to adjust brake shoes
- How to remove a pilot bushing from the crankshaft.
- Cutting spot welds
- E-brake clip removal made easy
- POR 15 with less mess.
- Engine Dolly - EZ to make
- Steering Wheel Restoration Page
- Other Projects
- Random Pics
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